reimbursements to the meat and dairy industries over the past decade (versus a fraction of that subsidizing fruits and veggies). And yet we’ve come to expect this subsidized luxury, the result of tens of billions of dollars in annual U.S. (So far, it’s working.) Only as I consumed less meat did I begin to see the meat all around me driving this market by chargrilling its way across every avenue of advertising into my consciousness.Ī single hamburger is by all measures an unsustainable product, requiring 660 gallons of water to produce, including lettuce, tomato, and a bun. And though we’ve curbed our love for beef over the past 40 years, we’ve more than made up those pounds in chicken.Įight years ago, to avoid going on medication to correct my high cholesterol, I switched to a diet that’s 85 percent plants and plant-based foods. We in the United States now eat more meat than ever before: a total of 264 pounds of beef, veal, pork, and chicken per person per year. ![]() Meat is something special to Americans in that it’s absolutely mundane. Then it uses all the modern marvels of industrial production-including heating, cooling, and the same extrusion process used to make Cheetos-to alchemize animal doppelgängers out of pea protein, coconut oil, and other nonmeat ingredients. ![]() There, the company puts beef and chicken samples under a microscope to understand how their proteins and fats are woven together. Nowhere is this achievement clearer than at Beyond Meat’s laboratory in Los Angeles. These new foods are engineered to mimic meat, designed to match its distinct chewiness, bloodiness, and umami flavor. Now that I’ve eaten almost every major product on the market, I find myself wishing I could mix and match their traits to create a supermeat of sorts, one plant meat to rule them all. And yet, my singular question about each new product is always the same: Well, what does that taste like? Does it … taste like meat? Meat alternatives branded with these and other superlatives now constitute a multibillion-dollar market that could be nearly 20 times larger by 2030. And I certainly couldn’t have imagined at that Thanksgiving that a decade later I’d be one of the nation’s principal journalists covering the new wave of plant-based proteins. I was a nose-to-tail carnivore until a high-cholesterol diagnosis led me to embrace a plant-dominant diet. It was never my mission to exalt vegetables. To this day I remember it as the Thanksgiving when no one talked. Every single portobello I’ve ever eaten, off every single vegetarian menu anywhere. ![]() As I sliced in, they didn’t taste bad they simply tasted like portobellos. The portobellos had turned the unappealing color of organ meat. But as I placed the mushrooms onto the plates of my guests-some of my closest relatives-I already sensed that I’d made a mistake. After hours of braising, I reduce the burgundy slurry to syrup, which I spoon over the mushrooms again and again until they’re glazed like an ube doughnut.īecause chef Thomas Keller’s braised short ribs was my favorite meat dish, I felt confident adapting the recipe with portobellos for my first vegan Thanksgiving. Leeks, onions, and carrots go in next, along with a full bottle of California Cabernet. Ten of our fiery, Spicy Batter Dipped Fish served with your choice of two family style sides and eight Hush Puppies.Ī classic creole gumbo with shrimp, chicken, sausage, and okra.Īdd on five pieces of our crispy Butterfly Shrimp.The portobellos strike my Le Creuset pan with a sizzle. Two Spicy Batter Dipped fish fillets, six crispy Butterfly Shrimp, two Crab Shells, and Popcorn Shrimp served with your choice of two sides and Hush Puppies. ![]()
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